My path took me through forests, past farms and into sheep pastures. Memorable encounters included French Resistance fighters, roughened farm women who saluted my independence, woodcutters and hunters with bagged game. I met pilgrims on their way to Santiago, English Vicars on vacation, singing Norwegian hikers and reckless weekend warrior mountain bikers. Everyone was intrigued by my journey and many offered assistance in finding water, lodging or food. – L. Peat O’Neil, Pyrenees Pilgrimage
L.Peat O’Neil has taken the personal journey in her own direction – hiking through France on a trail originally traveled by pilgrims as far back as the 13th century. Her book and her blog, both named Pyrenees Pilgrimage, take us on a path that travels through place, time, and L.Peat’s own self reflections. You will definitely enjoy L.Peat and her journey
through the French Pyrenees, complete with recipes and photos. We asked L. Peat some questions about her journey, her favorite hiking trails and her future travel plans. Enjoy!
Lexy: Combining walking through a region with also exploring local history, including religious history, seems like a great way to plan a personal journey. How did you research your trip, and what would you recommend to others planning a similar journey – whether it be walking, driving, or another form of transport?
L. Peat: Overall advice: get the maps and study them first. Maps provide all kinds of information (assuming they are detailed and made by professional cartographers). After map work, I turn to internet and look up specific towns or sites of note. Then I read a bit about the history of a place, but not too much. I’d rather discover en route. Always pre-check your gear too — car (if driving), boots, bag, etc. and know the local transportation options in advance.
Lexy: You’ve included some great recipes in your book – Basque Pheasant with Spiced Rice, Crepes, and the classic Boeuf a la Bourguignonne. Are there any that you find yourself recalling again and again?
L. Peat: I’ve never forgotten the pheasant meal — first night on the path. Of course, the recipe was acquired from a different source. I made crepes last summer while in a lodge type camp in northern Quebec for a large group of friends. Crepes are easy and all you need is jam or sugar to make a dessert.
Lexy: What are some of your favorite places to walk in the United States – whether you are on the trail or otherwise?
L. Peat: I walk on the Appalachian Trail every year, in day trip segments, not long distance overnight hikes. Have hiked in many Florida national forests which are large enough to walk for days. The Florida state parks are smaller, but some are quite pleasant for walking. Around Washington, DC area I return to the C&O Canal over and over, usually near Ft. Frederick or near Seneca and Monacacy. The various feeder trails to Rock Creek are also pleasant for a couple of hours at a time, but traffic sounds are audible and I prefer to be away from the noise.
Lexy: Do you have a ‘dream’ walking trip – someplace you’d like to travel on foot if you had no limitations whatsoever?
L. Peat: Great question. I would love to walk across the Tehuantepec Isthmus in Mexico from the Pacific to the Gulf of Mexico. Back in 2006 I assembled all the maps — not so easy to do. I had to copy them in the Map Reading Room at the Library of Congress and also purchased several topo maps from Mexico’s Geographic Mapping Service (similar to the USGS). But just as I planned to do the walk, a friend who works in travel security told me that the Isthmus was a danger zone because the southern Mexico frontier is a staging area for criminal gangs, and I would be placing myself at risk. So I didn’t go, but I still could. It’s not a huge distance, but the winds are significant across the plain.
Lexy: You are a great fan of the personal journey, and I’m sure that many people tell you about the journeys they
would like to take when they hear about your walk through the Pyrenees. What do you think prevents people from actually taking those journeys, and what advice do you have for overcoming these stumbling blocks?
L. Peat: You are right. People dream of travel and some actually go out and make those dreams happen (although reality might not align with what they dreamed). I’ve noticed that people invent or seek all kinds of excuses for not following their ideas that are just a little bit outside the ordinary, let alone act on their big ideas. Money, time, lack of freedom, responsibilities — in fact all these elements can be overcome with determination and belief in self. It doesn’t cost much to travel on your own. Tours and tourism that strives to duplicate the high energy consuming American lifestyle costs money, but independent travel can be cheaper on a per diem basis than staying at home. As to time, I urge people to realize that is your most precious asset so spend it as you like! Responsibilities and lack of freedom (from family, work, dog, volunteer obligations, etc.) can always be adjusted for a few months.
Lexy: Travelers are often planning their next trip – or just about to travel again. Where are you going next, or what trip are you planning now – walking or otherwise?
L. Peat: I thought I would be going to Viet Nam this winter because a friend is there teaching English. But I’m not sure I’m up to a long flight. Instead, I’m now crafting a trip that involves a cheap fare ocean crossing to England, trains and buses around Europe to see friends and return from LeHavre to Natal, Brazil on the French freight line CMA CGM. Then I’ll go overland from Brazil back up through Central America and Mexico. I’m hoping Mexico reanimates its train network which was slow but interesting and has fallen by the wayside as buses took over land transport. That’s the rough idea anyway — no flights.
L. Peat, we will definitely check in with you from time to time – to see where you’ve been, where you are, and where you’re going! All the best on your journey – personal or otherwise!

























