Archive for the ‘ South Carolina ’ Category

Beaufort and Hunting Island State Park, South Carolina

Wednesday, June 23rd, 2010

A Busy Saturday Afternoon in Beaufort
I’d planned to stop for lunch and a poke around in Beaufort on my way to Hilton Head Island.  With antebellum houses, restaurants with a view of the Intracoastal Waterway, gift shops and galleries, Beaufort’s the perfect place to take a break on the drive from Charleston to Hilton Head.  There’s always something going on in Beaufort.  It’s a great haven and you always feel welcome.  On this Saturday afternoon Beaufort was busy, people everywhere walking along the streets and by the Intracoastal Waterway, enjoying themselves in the shops, restaurants and cafes.

Everybody Goes to Plum’s
I parked in the lot near Nippy’s, a popular local spot I’d eaten at a few years ago on my first visit to Beaufort.  Nippy’s had a live band playing in the parking lot and a ring toss game alongside, but this time I wanted to eat along the water.   I walked in to Laura Tucker Designs to enjoy her mix of furniture, art and collectibles, and asked Laura to suggest a place to eat.  “Everyone goes to Plum’s!” she said without hesitation.  So, I headed to Plum’s just a few blocks away and on the water.  She was right – at Plum’s  there was a line of people, a signup sheet and a wait for a table.  But it was lively and fun and the line was visibly moving.  I could see the cooks on the line, working quickly.  Patrons were streaming in, meeting each other, crowding up to the bar.  Waitresses were gliding around, each in a brightly colored Plum’s t-shirt .  Seated after about 20 minutes, I chose the Chopped Romaine Cobb Salad and warm, fresh French Bread.  I briefly considered but passed on the daily soup selection – Alligator Stew – but appreciated that it was on the menu.  Plum’s has the feel of a family-run – and well-run – restaurant, a very friendly atmosphere and food that’s fresh and all made right there.  I can see why ‘everybody goes to Plum’s’ and look forward to my return.  Next time I’d love to sit on the back deck overlooking the water, enjoy a glass of wine with my meal and imagine a trip on the Intercoastal Waterway.

Back to a Favorite Shop
Fortified and happy, I headed to a shop I’d found on my last visit – Lulu Burgess -  whose owner has a knack for finding unique, beautiful – and well priced – items that you can’t live without the minute you see them.  The shop is a great place to stock up on clothes, jewelry, kitchen items, soaps, and decorative pieces that will please you and whoever you give them to – if you can part with them when the time comes.  I suggest you consider buying two – the prices allow it.  Beaufort is also a great spot for finding Low Country art and many art galleries are on the main street – perfect for window shopping or selecting a piece of art that will make you remember your day in Beaufort.  But, it was time to push on, so back to the parking lot next to Nippy’s and on to the next stop – Hunting Island State Park.

A Beach Left to Nature and a Maritime Forest
I’d read about Hunting Island State Park in Off the Beaten Track in the Wall Street Journal.  It sounded like a great stop on the way to Hilton Head Island – and turned out to be well worth the detour.  The beach is on the edge of a maritime forest, a jumble of pine trees and palm trees.  Walking along the beach you feel you’ve landed on shore like Swiss Family Robinson.  It’s wild and natural.  This is a wildlife refuge so there are flocks of birds, large driftwood trees dotting the beach, alligators in the nearby pond – and a sense of what the area was like 200 years ago with just the wind, the sun and nature all around.  If you are a camper consider camping here.

The drive to Hunting Island from Beaufort is beautiful, through countryside, past roadside stands for shrimp and crabs, and then out along and over the water.  Heading from Hunting Island State Park toward Hilton Head Island I drove over bridges and causeways and through small towns.  A quiet alternative to reaching Hilton Head if you’re tired of the major highways.  If you have the time to take this route you won’t regret the choice.  You’ll arrive on Hilton Head ready to ease into your visit there.

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An Evening and Morning in Charleston, South Carolina

Monday, June 21st, 2010

A Walk by the Battery and Dinner at Magnolia’s
I recently drove to Hilton Head Island and stayed overnight in Charleston on the way down.  Who doesn’t love Charleston?  It’s one of my favorite cities, where you find something interesting on every street and something more amazing around every corner.  So my night in Charleston had to include an evening out and a little time there the following morning.

I have a special love for the Battery in the hours before sunset.  The workday over, the evening ahead, children are playing and splashing in the fountains and families are walking along the water.  Ships sail by.  Walking along the gravel pathway, hearing and feeling the crunch of the gravel under your feet, it’s a great way to enjoy the beauty of this city.

Up toward East Bay Street, you pass by gift shops and small hotels.  Window boxes are filled with flowers and doormen open doors for arriving guests and unload luggage from cars.  There’s an air of anticipation in this section of Charleston, an air of occasion and pending celebration. 

Charleston has wonderful restaurants, all beckoning, but I have a clear favorite in that town.  I’ve been to Charleston twice and haven’t made it past Magnolia’s.  Magnolia’s atmosphere, food and service all work together in perfect harmony –  it’s a magic that makes you want to enjoy, to linger, to remember your moments there.  Each dish is beyond delicious and as you leave you’re thinking of what you’ll order next time and where you’d like to sit.   Tonight, seated at a window table I could watch the world pass by but my attention was drawn inside.  Couples and families enjoying themselves, talking and laughing, looking up with a smile as waiters bring dishes to the table.  A couple checks their theater tickets, relaxes, and both order dessert.  Waiters move quickly to fill water glasses and pour wine.  Our waitress – Sara Z. – answers questions about the menu and the wines easily, familiar and knowledgeable with our selections.  We’re served quickly but not too quickly to enjoy drinks and conversation.  My Fried Green Tomatoes and Shellfish over Grits are perfect with a glass of Pinot Gris.  For dessert  Lemon Buttermilk Cotta with Strawberry Sauce and a cappuccino finish the meal.  Sublime.  Walking back to the Battery to catch a jitney back to the hotel the stars are twinkling over this lovely evening. 

Morning Visit to the Charleston Farmer’s Market
The mornings have a special feeling in Charleston too – clear, fresh blue sky, especially if you’re headed to the Charleston Farmer’s Market.  One of the best Farmer’s Markets you’ll find anywhere, the Charleston Farmer’s Market is on Saturday mornings in Marion Square, Downtown Charleston, 8am-2pm.  This is a farmer’s market you can build your day around, complete with local farmers selling organic and heirloom produce, flowers, freshly baked breads and homemade soups, ravioli and just about anything else for the weekend and the week ahead.  For breakfast you can choose from crepes or omelettes made right there, or the variety of breads, muffins and croissants at various stands.  A New Orleans style coffee stand offers cappuccino or coffee with chicory along with beignets.  This is worth the wait.  Shop for provisions and then enjoy breakfast and coffee while listening to a live band.  Tables are on the lawn inside the square.

Besides local food, flowers and produce there’s a variety of local artists at the market, especially jewelers.  I couldn’t resist buying jewelry from three of them – millefiore style earrings by Leslie Madden of Island Handcrafts and earrings made from 1800’s pottery shards found in local archaeological digs by Robbie Clair of SouthEast Creations.  I also couldn’t resist a necklace – a small morning glory painted on enamel hanging from a gold chain, part of Michelle Fowler of The Scarlet Poppy’s array of jewelry made from vintage pieces.  Leaving the market I saw a great find – Lowcountry Sketches  - pen and ink prints of Charleston area churches and Lowcountry scenes.  These are painted by a local gentleman in his ‘90s and sold at the market by his son-in-law.  They are the perfect gift to remember a visit to Charleston.

Leaving Charleston, I head out toward Hilton Head Island with a plan to stop in Beaufort  and Hunting Island State Park along the way.

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